It was hard to overlook nature-inspired references in the spring-summer collections presented at the recently concluded New York Fashion Week.
From Rachel Antonoff, Susan Alexandra and Collina Strada to Libertine and Christian Siriano, designers experimented with botanical and bloom motifs in playful ways, including vibrant prints and statement-making appliqué.
Take Collina Strada’s show, which was held outdoors at Marble Cemetery in the East Village, for instance. The models walked through grass dressed in nature-inspired prints and hues—one pushed a lawn mower, and another carried a dog.
Preppy chic garments, meanwhile, are still very much in fashion, as seen during the presentations of Proenza Schouler, Tommy Hilfiger, Coach, Tory Burch and Ralph Lauren. While scarf shapes and nautical stripes dominated Proenza Schouler’s collection, Tommy Hilfiger, Coach and Ralph Lauren stayed true to their utilitarian, easy breezy separates and dresses with a nod to athleticism.
The highpoint this season was Alaia’s show, which made a strong case for sculpted spiral dressing. What’s more, some of Khaite’s architectural looks exemplified the brand’s draping and sculpting skills. Extra-drop waist silhouette has emerged as the key look of the season, with several designers, including Tibi and Monse, presenting low-slung skirts.
Here are some other key trends that emerged at the recently concluded New York Fashion Week.
Ulla Johnson had Lee Krasner’s Comet, 1970 on her mind, as some elements of the painting were printed on the panels that formed the centerpiece of her showcase.
The designer worked with the estate of the late artist for two years to secure permission to use Comet, 1970 and two other pieces, Portrait in Green and Palingenesis, as prints in the spring collection.
Jason Wu, on the other hand, was inspired by the work of Chinese artist Tong Yang-Tze, who, at the age of 82, the show notes read, “will be the first Asian artist to create works for The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Great Hall Commission this November.” The designer reinterpreted some of Tong’s works as prints.
Tactile tassels were seen at Monse, Proenza Schouler, Prabal Gurung and Ulla Johnson. At Ulla’s show, a black party dress accented with gold bead fringe stood out. Nanushka, too, incorporated tassels in the collection showcase, presenting tiered fringes on skirts, dresses and tops.
Coach’s show opened with a navy blazer and khakis with a “I Heart NY” tee. Tommy Hilfiger’s outing embraced preppy allure, with navy captain’s blazers and peacoat-style trench coats, cricket sweaters and tennis V-necks. Tory Burch’s show was closed with three key ensembles that styled sleeveless muscle tees with delicately draped and ruffled asymmetric jersey chiffon skirts.
Manish Mishra is a Delhi-based writer and content creator.