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Nicola Mira
Published
Jun 27, 2024
The menswear looks for next summer emerging in the collections that showed in London, Florence, Milan and Paris from June 7 to 23, were characterised by a carefree, effortless elegance, featuring understated, comfortable textures and straightforward, unfussy cuts. Men will favour a smart, flexible wardrobe consisting of a few basic staples: a suit, trousers in thick, durable fabric, shorts of course, V-neck polos and casual shirts, some lightweight knitwear, a summer coat, and a nylon top. Plus the obligatory beachwear essentials. The looks are a touch scruffy, with a monochrome palette of neutral hues and, at most, checks and stripes. Logos and monograms are out. The Riviera trend with its slightly outmoded chic is very much in vogue, and tank tops have supplanted t-shirts. The current economic climate has evidently prompted fashion labels to design more commercial collections.
1. Pinstripe suits, reinterpreted
Suits are more than ever the essential staple of men’s wardrobes, but they are worn with a more relaxed vibe, unbuttoned, over a simple t-shirt. Pinstripe suits, the emblem of men’s formal wear, have been subverted and reinterpreted with a cool mood. They featured pyjama-style at LGN, as jacket-and-shorts sets at Amiri, as casual tops with frayed hems at Magliano. Simon Cracker did them in turquoise. Hed Mayner transformed them in tunics, matched with a workwear-style vest with pockets, while Kidsuper presented a patchwork suit made with strips of grey pinstripe fabric. In a more playful version, at Moschino, they came equipped with pockets to hold assorted office paraphernalia, from pens to notebooks, key card, drinks canteen, and more. Even Giorgio Armani opted for an easy-going mood, its suits worn over a V-neck sweater.
2. Shorts
In the last few years, shorts, especially the Bermuda type, have replaced trousers in suits, enjoying mixed success with consumers, since switching to shorts is still a difficult decision to make for some. Shorts will feature extensively in summer 2025: in extremely sunny versions, looking almost like swimming trunks in lightweight cotton or nylon, with slightly fitted cuts or with rather ample volumes and high-quality fabrics for a more formal vibe, as well as in the hardcore, BDSM-style version in laced-up leather seen at Dsquared2. While cycling shorts are still very much in fashion, of course.
3. Tank tops
The classic white cotton vest with thin shoulder straps is still a must-have menswear item. It will be everywhere next summer, and has definitively replaced the t-shirt. At Bluemarble it was even worn right over a t-shirt. It featured in some uber-chic outfits, for example under lavish suits at Brioni and many others, and peeking out from under the shoulder of a loose sweater at Fendi. At Martine Rose, vests looked more like camisoles, with slits and lace details, or like tight-fitting athlete’s jerseys. Dsquared2 featured vests in latex, and Neil Barrett in a two-in-one version.
4. Suede jackets
Suede has made a remarkable breakthrough in the summer 2025 menswear collections. It is used to make casual tops, jackets, shorts and trousers. Zegna employed this lightweight leather with a velvety touch to fashion a finely tailored classic formal jacket, but in a lining-free version without using any other material, with a view to its future recycling.
5. Raffia and weaving techniques
Raffia, straw, wicker and rattan: designers have rivalled in audacity this season, showcasing their artisanal expertise by adopting surprising weaving techniques. Like Magliano, which cut out the edge of a wicker basket to turn it into a belt. Besides featuring in many accessories, like the raffia chapkas seen at Bluemarble and the countless oversize wickerwork bags and picnic hampers cropping up here and there, weaving techniques have been used to make jackets and shirts too. Especially at Dolce & Gabbana, which used a Thonet chair’s characteristic weave to fashion a jacket, among other things.
6. Seaside mood
Next summer’s new menswear looks will be based on a chic Riviera style with all-white outfits (Dolce & Gabbana, White Mountaineering), a small handkerchief around the neck or slipped into a pocket, a navy sweater on the shoulders and boat shoes, for a preppy and slightly retro Dolce Vita feel. The seaside trend has the wind in its sails, featuring ample camisoles and shorts, plenty of tops with sailor’s collars, and terry towels worn pareo-fashion around the waist (seen at Magliano, Doublet, Moschino, and C.R.E.O.L.E). The effect is heightened by flip flops worn even and especially with a suit, as a sign of supreme nonchalance.
7. Sailor-stripe sweaters
Heeding the powerful marine call designers have issued, striped sailor-style sweaters are back with a vengeance. The classic Brittany sweater with navy and white stripes is the must-have item for a directional look. Designers have given it a fresh twist of course. For example, by adopting thin wave-like stripes, as in the tight-fitting sweaters by Prada and MSGM, or with black gondolier-style stripes at Dolce & Gabbana. At Dunhill, a sailor-stripe sweater was worn under a chic cotton jacket. And it morphed into a snug ribbed pullover at Wales Bonner, System Studios and White Mountaineering.
8. Fishnet fabrics
Fishnet fabrics will be uber-directional next summer, adding an airy feel to the silhouette. Every collection featured items made with this light, breathable openwork material, most often used for tank tops, especially crocheted ones, as at Kenzo, where they were decorated with embroidered appliqué. But it was also used to make openwork tunics and tote bags. Gucci, Amiri and Zegna featured polos in mesh fabric, both elegant and sexy. Mesh, and other types of high-tech fabrics, were also used for tank tops with an athletic, performance-gear vibe.
9. Nylon
Airy, feather-light and protective, nylon is the most popular material for summer 2025, alongside lightweight high-tech fabrics. It is a perfect fit for the outdoor activity register that is increasingly playing a leading role in menswear. Lightweight, transparent nylon is the fabric of choice for windbreakers, a must-have item for well-travelled guys, but is also used for shorts, tops, bomber jackets, and the ubiquitous joggers. And of course for raincoats, which have ousted coats. As was ideally illustrated by Lemaire and Dries van Noten, which presented raincoats in a crinkled, colourful lightweight material.
10. Football jerseys
Right in the midst of Euro 2024, and on the eve of the Paris Olympics, a sporty note was all but inevitable. Designers have gone for football-style jerseys, riding the football fan trend which is becoming increasingly popular. There is nothing chicer than sporting a jersey in the colours of a luxury label, for example with the Louis Vuitton or Fendi Roma logos. Other designers are having fun reinterpreting the kits of their favourite teams, or joining forces with clubs directly, as 3.Paradis did with PSG, dropping a special-edition jersey. As for the footballs themselves, quite a number of them featured on the runways, even transformed into garments, as at Moschino.
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