Admin September 15, 2024
NEW YORK – Another New York Fashion Week is in the books.
In a week that included shows from Ralph Lauren, Tory Burch and 3.1 Phillip Lim – plus celebrity appearances from Madonna, first lady Jill Biden, Suni Lee and more – there was plenty to do and see in true New York fashion. Though largely lackluster (Sheer? For spring/summer? Groundbreaking), the season still pumped out some gems in Luar, Melitta Baumeister and more, with truly stunning collections emblematic of what the season is capable of producing.
One editor, almost 30 runway shows, presentations, showrooms and events. Here’s your inside look at everything we saw at New York Fashion Week:
Harlem’s Fashion Row
Harlem’s Fashion Row Fashion Show & Style Awards sets the tone of what fashion week could (and perhaps should) be: a time to celebrate emerging talent as well as the trailblazers who have made cultural differences in the industry. Naomi Campbell received the Icon Award, Teyana Taylor earned the Virgil Abloh Award; Lena Waithe, Tracee Ellis Ross and Anna Wintour all spoke, and A. Potts, Latouché and Nicole Benefield Portfolio showcased their designs.
Longchamp
Longchamp fêted its fall/winter 2024 collection and its Le Roseau bag with a party, where Bravo “Summer House” stars mingled near Joey King and Maren Morris with colorful backdrops perfected for social media influencers like Tefi Pessoa and Taryn Delanie Smith.
Ralph Lauren
In a word: unreal. Ralph Lauren took a 250-person guest list of A-listers like first lady Jill Biden, Usher, Tom Hiddleston, H.E.R., Kacey Musgraves and more to the Hamptons for a soirée of the classics: fashion, food and festivities. I was among a small group of editors who journeyed to Bridgehampton for the festivities, which you can read about in full here. The main takeaway: Ralph Lauren is a true master of his craft and had some of the absolute best pieces of the week.
Brandon Maxwell
Brandon Maxwell “softly unraveled the brand DNA” for a “sense of calm and confident nonchalance,” according to the show notes. The pared back collection had a few glimpses of great (everything navy stunned, as did a beige jacket paired with a sparkling silver skirt), but was too much of the brand lost in the unraveling?
Christian Siriano
When Lil’ Kim arrived mid-show to join Cyndi Lauper, Tiffany Haddish and Selma Blair front row, I knew Christian Siriano already delivered a fashion week capital-M Moment. The collection felt more disjointed and less wearable than his previous offerings, but the designer’s dedication to inclusivity and having an eclectic but stellar front row shone through.
Badgley Mischka
At Badgley Mischka‘s presentation, models donned laser-cut floral details, vivid colors and a pale blue pleated frock with a bejeweled, off-the-shoulder illusion neckline – casual couture for the modern woman.
“I think a lot of it has to do with the fabric, technology, and everything has stretch in it. Everything feels like sportswear on the body, even though it looks very formal,” James Mischka says. “It’s super important: Our customer will not suffer for fashion.”
Mark Badgley adds: “The girl comes to us for a classic look. … It’s like little baby steps of introducing (and) changing.”
Jonathan Cohen
Jonathan Cohen‘s presentation focused on “Synesthesia,” or sensory overlap, at its location upstairs from The Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual & Transgender Community Center. My senses were overloaded with the coffee provided by Blank Street and the bright colors and mismatched patterns of the collection (in particular, a royal blue jacket with wide lapels and maroon, yellow and green embellishment).
Who Decides War
One of the best of the week. Who Decides War had it all: stunning venue (Halls Des Lumières); student musicians (from Frank Sinatra School of the Arts) playing alongside Cash Cobain’s original track for the runway; front row with YG and NLE Choppa; and an incredible collection of Victorian-era inspiration with cotton, linen, lace and more (Katy Perry donned a shipwrecked bra top and skirt from the collection for the MTV VMAs red carpet days later).
Tanner Fletcher
Inventive and plain fun, Tanner Fletcher‘s presentation of vignettes allowed the clothes to flourish. Dylan Mulvaney in a two-toned strapless gown was part of “the artist and her muse,” while other specific scenes and personalities included “Victorian women polishing silver,” “finance bro” and “loves me, loves me not” featuring a cream, satin-y drop-waist dress.
Sergio Hudson
Softness and sensuality defined Sergio Hudson, a pivot from the bold, bouncy, blazer-fied looks for which the designer’s namesake brand has become known. Highlights: Pastels in silk, sequins and tweed, a navy pinstriped pantsuit and the introduction of menswear.
“I was seeking some peace and quiet and solace from some things that were going on in the business,” Hudson tells USA TODAY. “That’s where the quietness came from, forging through adversity and releasing what I think the brand is intended to be.”
Jordan Brand
A brief moment of respite came from Jordan Brand‘s downtown suite, curated by Spike Lee’s children Satchel and Jackson Lewis Lee, showcasing the latest clothing and shoe styles from the classic brand, and previewing a collaboration with Who Decides War co-founder Téla D’Amore. Plus a calm atmosphere, wellness treatments, green juices and food (a rarity for editors running around New York during the week).
Jason Wu
Jason Wu offered up a cohesive collection in the Hudson Yards sunlight. Pleated ensembles were exceptional, including a wet-looking white dress, a cocoa piece with corseting and raw edges as well as black pants with pleating on the half-skirt.
Alexis Bittar
Jewelry and accessories brand Alexis Bittar previewed its own SS25 collection, with its signature mix of lucite and metals (but it was a ring with a pearl grasped by a gold hand that most caught my eye).
3.1 Phillip Lim
In celebration of 20 years of the brand, 3.1 Phillip Lim created a uniquely ethereal collection of lightweight lace paired with delicate feathers, infusions of camo, tasseled sequins, open-knit mesh and statement shirts (“Enjoy the moment” one said, and I certainly did.)
Alanis Morissette, Kyrie Irving, Nia Long, Tanner Adell, Daniel Dae Kim and more honored the designer, who said he “wanted to get back to the origins of my joy, of why I started in fashion as a fashion designer.”
Markarian
Inspired by designer Alexandra O’Neill‘s childhood in the ’80s and ’90s, the Markarian collection leaned into yesteryear with jacquard dresses that could have adorned your favorite Barbie doll and luxe but playful sequined gingham.
Melke
Scholastic book fair fans, stand up! Melke took attendees to school at their presentation, featuring a dress made entirely of pencils and another dotted with erasers and sharpeners, with books lining the room. Your favorite fashionable elementary school librarian would love this collection.
Dennis Basso
Susan Lucci made her NYFW debut at Dennis Basso and looked incredibly fabulous doing so. A Park Avenue crew comprised of Kathy Hilton, Sandra Lee and more took in looks on models of all ages, from glittering tweed looks of all hemlines to lightweight versions of his signature fur.
Cotte D’Armes
Cotte D’Armes took fashion folks to church, marking designer Clarence Ruth’s solo runway debut at NYFW.
The show melded “traditional apparel of women in the church” and athleisure, finding a “common thread” across church fascinators, bright colors, gloves, denim and sweatpants. A singular silhouette: a structural dress with a light-up skirt, similar to Jun Takahashi’s Undercover look that adorned Amelia Gray Hamlin on the 2024 Met Gala carpet.
Tory Burch
Bravo, Tory Burch. The Toryssaince continues, with another stellar collection and a front row to boot: Ella Emhoff, Mindy Kaling, Suni Lee, Michelle Williams, Elizabeth Olsen, Jodie Turner-Smith and more.
The designer‘s cool girl ethos effortlessly translated from the swishy, draped skirts to the swim team uniform looks, with traditional one-piece-looking body suits paired with chic trousers for sweatpants that perfectly complemented the bleacher-style seating and swimming pool floor runway.
Andrew Kwon
Great gowns galore at Andrew Kwon, who took over NYC hotspot COQODAQ for a show and presentation. The modern silhouettes and soft color palette was a fairytale for first thing in the morning.
COS
The European retailer turned out a star-studded front row – Issa Rae, Colman Domingo, Emma Roberts, Emily Ratajkowski and Chloë Sevigny – and a minimalist’s dream of a runway, where guests were greeted with champagne and mocktails. And shopaholics are in luck, since the autumn/winter 2024 collection is shoppable now.
PatBO
The heyday of the butterfly top is far from over, according to PatBO. The metamorphosis moment popped up on dresses, too, but it was the maroon, sequined pieces at the end that stole the show and elevated a pretty but otherwise mid-level collection. Reality TV stars including Jessel Taank and Stassi Schroeder sat front row.
Pamella Roland
The city that never sleeps briefly transformed into the city of love for Pamella Roland‘s spring showcase. Described in show notes as a “love letter” to Paris, the colorful collection included a mix of vibrant pink, blue and lavender dresses with crystals and sequins paired with black gowns, jackets and jumpsuits.
Nicky Hilton, Anika Noni Rose and Vanessa Williams were among the stars spotted at the event, the soundtrack for which wrapped with Frank Sinatra’s “I Love Paris.”
“Paris in the springtime is so beautiful,” Roland tells USA TODAY. “We had all the girls out with all the colors, and it looked like a big bouquet.”
— Brendan Morrow
Bibhu Mohapatra
Bibhu Mohapratra‘s show was inspired by punk rock icon and “maverick spirit” Patti Smith. Though the collection mixed in everyday pieces, the gowns (including a modern pink version of Marilyn Monroe’s “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes” dress) showed where Mohapatra’s true talent continues to lie.
Luar
With Madonna there, what else is there really to say? As gaggles of tourists gathered around the Rockefeller Plaza runway, the chaos of NYFW created a true “New York or nowhere” moment reminiscent of the Beyoncé appearance at Luar last season. Designer Raul Lopez refuses to shrink into the background any longer in life, and the clothes – and the shows – are catapulting him to the forefront.
Black in Fashion Council Discovery Showroom
The Black in Fashion Council Discovery Showroom had my wallet looking up at me with concern. It also focused on memories and ancestral ties through family and the diaspora: the Adore Adorn jewelry with a statement ring inspired by the designer’s grandmother; the inventive heart-shaped cutouts in the heels at Arch; pleating and vibrant colors from Atelier Ndigo; high-quality basics a la The Row at Borden, inspired by the designer’s grandparents; and the modern nostalgia of ’60s and ’70s workwear and uniforms of Diallo.
Private Policy
“Everybody wants to be us.” A timeless quote from Meryl Streep’s Miranda Priestly in “The Devil Wears Prada,” now emblazoned on a T-shirt that was part of Private Policy‘s homage to the film, 2000s fashion office culture and questioning AI’s role in balancing creativity with productivity.
Models frantically typed on old-school desktop computers while models resembling office sirens walked the runway. And I spotted the controversial Anna Delvey at the show, ankle monitor and all.
Melitta Baumeister
Weird but wearable – and one of the week’s standout shows. So much so that onlookers in buildings across the street pulled out phones to record the runway, which Offset closed in an oversize leather jacket cape with exaggerated detailing.
With sounds of heavy breathing, a heart beating and track star Scout Bassett’s voice overheard from the get go, Melitta Baumeister‘s runway debut was brought to life by the designer’s unique perspective, mixed with funky styling (think the look of being electrocuted while in the shower) and pieces that feel special but easily styled and worn for every day (a banana bag and a bag that was literally smoking added whimsy.)
Lost Pattern
For Lost Pattern‘s “La Isla” runway show, the brand known for its silk scarves and accessories branched out into ready to wear. With a large collection that models strutted out onto the streets of New York after a runway show, there’s still room for the brand to find its footing in translating the beauty of their signature pieces into must-own clothing.
